Method of making shoes



April 1940. 5. J. FINN 2,197,928

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed 001;. 3, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 23,1940. 5. J. FINN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Oct. 5, 1938 2Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr-23,19 2,17,928?

UNITED srares PTENT OFFICE Sidney ll. Finn, Beverly, Mass, assignor toUnited Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. 'J., acorporation of'New Jersey Application October 3, 1938, Serial No.232,929-

' 9 Claims. (01. 12-142 This invention relates to methods of making Fig.4 is a perspective showing the trimming shoes and is herein described aspracticed in the off of surplus material ,irom the lasting allowmakingof ladies pumps. ance of the box toe;

In the manufacture of shoes it is customary Fig. 5 is a perspective ofthe'shoe after the 5 to stitch together a lining and an upper, to placeupper has been lasted, certain portions of the 5 a still molded counterbetween. them at their overlasted margin of the ,upper having been heelportions, and to mount this assembled mempulled up to show the cement;ber together with an insole upon a last. A tein- Fig. 6 is an elevationof the shoe ready to have porary limp box tee is placed between theupper the last pulled and the lining and upper stitched and the liningat their toe portions and then together along their upper edges; 7 10the pulling-over andside-lasting operations iol- Fig. 'lis a section onan enlarged scale on the low. The tack which holds the extreme toeporline'VII-VII,of Fig. 6; I g tions of the upper lining and box toe isremoved, Fig. 8 is an elevation of the forepart' of the and the greaterpart of the lasting allowance finished shoe; and

of the box toe is cut out; after which the toe Fig. 9 is a section on anenlarged scale on the'15 and heel are lasted and the subsequentoperations line IXIX of Fig. 8. performed including the attaching of theoutsole In carrying out the {method (Fig. 1) a lining and the heel. Itis difiicult with this method to l5, which as shown is in two parts, ismounted cause the heel end of the assembly, which intogether with aninsole I! upon ,a last l9 and 61116168 the pp the lining, and th Co tepulled over and lasted, a cement such as latex 2Q to take the exactshape of the heel portion of being employed, the upper edge of the.lining the last- T e fii u y S d largely o the aroundwhat will b'ethefoot opening in the finpresence of three layers of material to be shapedish d shoe being fastened to. the last by tacks and to the fact that themolded Coun e d 2!. A molded counter 2a (Fig. 3) coated on its not h veinitially the exact Shape Of the heel inner face with cement s'uchaslatex is placed 5 p rt n of the l and must e conformed to over the heelend of the lining and subjected to it more or less. Also after the shoehas been conforming operation r example t t pul v r. it i fii lsatisfactorily to m tion of a conforming machine such as that shown offthe surplus material of the lasting allowance in i 2 of the box toe. pThis machine comprises a support for the Acc r in o he p s i v n n hparts last, a deformable rubber pad 21 having inits are all, or for themost part, mounted separately forw rd portion a generally U-shapedrecess pon he l st r up n ea h oth r, he lining being to receive theheel portion of the partly fabri- D d e e o the upp i mounted 119 catedshoe, and a second deformable rubber pad it and the upper d l n being searat y 29. The rubber pad 2? is mounted in a two-part formed to he lastan Su q y being frame 3| the parts ofwhich are hinged together 35 o d thalong their pper edges. By t about a pivot 33 carried by the frame ofthe method of procedure in which the parts are all, machine and may beswung from open to closed or for the mo p nf rm p r y to position andback again by suitably operated n the last and th Su p us ma 0f the bOXtoe links one of which is shown at 35, said links being can be morereadily and accurately removed, each pivoted at one of their ends to oneof the shoe esu s w c s a a y as possible t parts of the pad frame 3!,the pivot for the link exact counterpart of the last upon which it was35 being shown at 31.. The upper pad 29 is car-' made. riedby a plate 33theupright stem of which is Referring now to the accompanying drawings,vertically slidable in a bore in an overhanging 4 Fig. 1 is aperspective of the shoe the lining arm '4! of the frame of the machineand is pro- Which has been l fi Over d p a y vided with a rack 43 withwhich meshes a pinlasted; ion, notshown, on a horizontal shaft 45rotatably Fig. 2 is a perspective of the machine for conmounted in theoverhanging arm and having at 5 forming the heel end of the lining andthe coun one'end spokes 41 by which it may be turned to for to the heelend of the last; raise and lowerthe pad 29. The parts of "the Fig. 3 isa perspective of the shoe after the pad frame 3!.are first swung open topermitthe completion of the lasting of the lining and after heel end ofa lasted shoe to be placed upon the having been operated upon by themachine of support and are then closed to cause the wings Fig. 2; andrear wall of the counter to be conformed to the shape of the heelportion of the last. This is the position of parts shown. Thereafter,the shaft is rotated to conform the inturned flange of the counter tothe shape of the adjacent bottom surface of the last. The counter thusconformed is held in place by the cement.

As an alternative to that part of the method which has been thus fardescribed a partly molded counter in the form commonly referred to asclam shell and the heel end of a lining with cement between them may beplaced in a counter molding machine and molded together. The moldedcounter and lining may then be mounted together with an insole upon alast and pulled over and lasted, after which the heel portion of thepartly fabricated shoe may be subjected to conforming pressure, forexample, by means of the machine shown in Fig. 2. In either case theshoe at this stage of its manufacture will have the appearance shown inFig. 3, the lining and the counter being conformed exactly to theadjacent portion of the last.

A limp box toe 49 (Fig. 4) such for example as one made of fabricimpregnated with pyroxylin and soft or limp by reason of the presence init of a volatile solvent, such as acetone, is now placed on the toe endof the lining and conformed to the toe portion of the last, after whichthe surplus .material, which consists of the greater part of the lastingallowance of the box toe, is trimmed off, for example by means of a handknife 5|.

An upper 53 (Fig. 5) is mounted upon the lining, box toe, and counterand lasted, the overlasted margin being fastened to the overlastedmargin of the lining and the inturned flange of the counter in anysuitable manner, for example by cement such as latex, and also in theheel seat portion by tacks 52. The upper edge of this upper haspreviously been finished, for example in 40.

the manner shown in Figs. '7 and 9, by means of a strip of binding 55which is first stitched at 51 to the display side of the upper and thenfolded about the attached portion and about the edge of the upper andcemented to the flesh side of the upper. The further manufacture of theshoe proceeds as usual including the attaching of an outsole 59 and aheel 6|. The tacks 2| which fasten the upper edge of the lining 15 tothe last are removed, and the last is pulled. The upper and liningaround the foot-opening of the shoe now have the appearance best shownin Fig. '7, the lining l5 projecting above the edge of the upper 53. Thelining and upper are fastened together by stitches 63 after which thesurplus projeoting portion of the lining is trimmed off, the finishedshoe having the appearance shown in Fig. 8.

Although the invention has been described as a series of steps performedin' a certain order, it should be understood that the invention is notlimited in the scope of its application to the use of all of the stepsnor to the particular order in which they have been described.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is: I

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a liningtogether with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of thelining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter onthe heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counter to yieldingpressure to conform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place,assembling a limp box toe upon the toe portion of the lining andconforming it to the shape of the last, trimming ofi the surplusmarginal material of the box toe, assembling an upper over the lining,box toe and counter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening thelining and the upper together along the edge of the footopening of theshoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of the lining.

,2. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a liningtogether with an insole upon a last, lasting the lining, assembling amolded counter on the heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counterto pressure exerted upon its wings and its inturned flange to conform itaccurately to the last and fastening it in place, assembling an upperover the lasted lining and the counter, lasting the upper, pulling thelast, and fastening the lining and upper together along the edge of thefoot-opening of the shoe.

3. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a liningtogether with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of thelining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter onthe heel portion of the lining, subjecting the counter to pressure toconform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assemblingan upper over the lasted lining and the counter, lasting the upper,pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along theedge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projectingportion of the lining.

4. The method of making a shoe which comprises assembling a liningtogether with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper edge of thelining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling a molded counter onthe heel portion of the lining,

subjecting the counter to the action of deforma ble pressing means toconform it accurately to the last and fastening it in place, assemblingan upper over the lasted lining and the counter,

lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the uppertogether along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimmingoff the projecting portion of the lining.

5. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last aninsole, a lining lasted thereto and a molded counter, subjecting thecounter to the action of deformable pressing means exerted upon itswings and its inturned flange to conform it accurately to the last andfastening it in place, assembling an upper over F the lining and thecounter, lasting the upper, pulling the last, and fasteningthe liningand upper together along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe.

6. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last aninsole, a lining lasted thereto and fastened along its upper edge to thelast, and a molded counter, subjecting the counter to pressure toconform it accurately to the last, fastening it in place, assembling anupper over the lasted lining, lasting the upper, pulling the last,fastening the lining and the upper together along the edge of thefoot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off the projecting portion of thelining.

7). The method of making a shoe which comprises providing on a last aninsole, a lining lasted thereto and fastened along its upper edge to thelast, and a molded counter, subjecting the counter to the action ofdeformable pressing means to conform it accurately to the last,fastening it in place, assembling an upper over the lasted lining,lasting the upper, pulling the last, fastening the lining and the uppertogether along the edge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimmingofi the projecting portion of the lining.

I 2,197,928 8. The method of making ashoe which com-- prises assemblinga lining together with an insole upon a last, fastening the upper marginof the lining to the last, lasting the lining, assembling an upper uponthe lasted lining, lasting the upper, removing the fastening means,pulling the last, fastening the lining and the upper together along theedge of the foot-opening of the shoe, and trimming off theprojecting-portion of the 10 lining.

9. The method of making a shoe'which com ble of becoming hard andresilient, conforming the box toe to the toe portion of the last,trimming olf surplus material from the lower margin of the box toe,assembling an upper on the lining and box toe, lasting the upper,pulling the last and fastening the lining and upper together along theedge of the foot-openingof the shoe.

SIDNEY r J. FINN.

